When you do business or travel in China, it’s likely that you will eat many of your meals in hotel restaurants or other elegant establishments. This can be a welcome break from the bustle, and the quality will generally be fine. Even at its worst, fine dining in Shanghai is cheaper than in New York or London.
But there’s no reason to strain your wallet. Especially if you are with a friend or two, eating out can give you a fascinating window onto real China. The food at small, obscure (and, frankly, grubby-looking) restaurants is often fresher and tastier than at the famous eateries. Best of all, you can eat your fill for 1/100th the cost of a five-star meal. Exotic, delicious food for less than a dollar? Welcome to China!
When choosing a cheap place, check for: -Lots of customers -A staff that seems, if not peppy, at least alert -No foul smells or flies -Disposable chopsticks
Here are a few food recommendations:
-“Gai Jiao Fan” --Literally “lidded rice,” this is simply a bed of white rice with a stir fried dish on top. It’s prepared as you wait, usually in a kitchen that you can see from your perch on a dingy little stool. A favorite with workmen and cash-strapped students. Avg. Price in Shanghai: 6-11 RMB (cheaper in other cities).
-“Shui Jiao”—Chinese dumplings. You can usually watch the staff wrapping and boiling the dumplings. There are all kinds of fillings, and you can’t really go wrong. Dumplings are tasty, familiar (no chicken claws or pig guts) and healthy, because they are boiled in water, not fried. Average price: 2-3 RMB/ 6 dumplings.
-“La Mian”— Literally “pulled noodles,” this is a bowl of Chinese noodles, usually served with soup and meat. Most La Mian restaurants are operated by Muslims from Western China. These restaurants do not serve pork or alcohol. Average price: 4-6 RMB/ bowl
China is a poor country with lower hygiene standards than the West. This means that many perfectly good restaurants look a little rugged, and that many expensive places may still have food of dubious quality. Just keep an open mind. A little bit of “Mao Zedong’s Revenge” is not the end of the world.
By Peter Braden
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